Range is measured in the imprecise way of Dota 2. Others are weird and poorly understood or documented at this time, like movement and range. They have an attack speed with its own animations and quirks based on model-these are things very familiar to Dota 2 players and accessible on the game’s wiki. Heroes are like any unit in an RTS or RPG: They have health, mana, damage, armor, and the like. Remember that you can lock the pool if you want a piece but can’t afford it until next round-just don’t forget to unlock it. You can spend money to refresh your available pool and hunt down the pieces for your combo, but that costs valuable gold and will guarantee your defeat if you do it too much in the early to mid game. You’ve got eight reserve hero slots for precisely this reason.
#Auto chess wiki full#
Your early hero buys might not fit into a larger strategy very well, but don’t be afraid to buy low level pieces you might not use long term because level one heroes can always be sold back for their full value. Meanwhile, it’s expensive to make a four or five cost hero (36 or 45 gold, respectively) into its level three form-not to mention that you’d need to get randomly dealt and then have the gold to buy 90% of the available supply of a five cost hero to level it up. You just need to spend the nine gold to buy nine copies, and there are 45 copies of a one cost hero in the pool, so you’ve got a good chance of finding them in the draft. So it’s pretty easy to make a one cost hero into a level three.
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Heroes cost an amount based on their power-between one and five-but take the same number of duplicates to upgrade no matter their base cost. Placing three heroes of the same kind and level on the board will upgrade them into a single, stronger hero of a higher level. I like to just commit to the loss until I get to less than 40 health while focusing on only the most valuable heroes, and then combine those heroes to a mid-game surge and spend big to try to win. Losing on purpose can be good if you’re struggling-it’ll cost you hit points, but it’ll also stack up your losing streak bonus and let you get back in the game before you’re out entirely. The poorest players in a game are the ones who alternate between winning and losing each round. (It’s something you can control!)Įconomic strategy, therefore, is to either win or lose for a few games in a row, but never alternate between the two. Each round you also get 10 percent interest on your gold stores, rounded down-saving up 50 or more gold at the mid game for late game interest is important. You also get gold for a streak-either winning or losing-that can stack up to three per win or loss in a row. You’ll also get a single extra gold for winning a round. The game isn't made any easier by balance updates that come nearly every day of the week, especially when they change which heroes cost what and therefore how many are in the pool.Įach round you’ll get a base gold income. The Auto Chess economyĮconomics are king in Auto Chess, but feature some remarkably unintuitive aspects. So you have to focus on aspects of the game that you can control.
If this all sounds random and surprising and hard to keep up with, that’s because it is-at least at first. The early game is generally considered to be the first four levels, the mid to be levels five to seven, and the late to be levels eight to ten.
I’ll use the terms early-, mid-, and late-game a lot in this guide.